California without a car, Day 5

[ali-s]

California without a car Day 5 Monterey Aug 13th

Off on our whale watching trip today. I prebooked this a couple of months before and am really looking forward to it- though I’ve told myself I’ll be happy just to get a glimpse of a whale, I’m really hoping we’ll see a couple properly.

We have breakfast – same as the holiday inn express in San Francisco, but on a much smaller scale, only one other family in the dining area. Then we set off for Fishermans wharf.
There is a ‘recreation trail’ that runs from the wharf , past Cannery row and on out to pacific grove. It has a line down the middle so you have to remember to keep right and is well used by walkers, joggers and cyclists. We turned right out of the hotel onto the trail and walked maybe about 15 mins to the Fishermans wharf. We stopped several times to watch the sea lions – lots here, lying on the rocks and splashing about in the water. One seal pup had been parked on a rock and told to ‘stay there ‘til I get back’ by his mum, he had quite a crowd ‘ahhing’ over him, he did look cute there all on his ownsome.It was still early (9am ) and rather overcast, the light was rather ‘different’ so I took a few photos.




We checked in at 9.30 for our 10am trip. I’d booked for the princess Monterey, this is supposedly the biggest boat that goes out and on the website, the captain keeps a record of what they’ve seen on what day. They seemed to be pretty consistent with their sightings, so I had my fingers crossed we ‘d see some whales. The sun had come out now and it was hot – we had to put suncream on while we were waiting, a bit different to the chill that greeted us yesterday.
There were more sealions down at the wharf. Some were on the rafts like the ones at pier 39, but many had pulled themselves up onto boats anchored in the harbor, we were told they can be a real pain with the mess they make- I can just imagine it !




10am we boarded the boat. There were maybe 20 other passengers, plenty of room for everyone. We set out , passing more sealions at the harbor entrance.


Not far out of the harbor, we hit the fog again, grey sky, grey water and it was cold ! Didn’t feel so silly for packing fleeces and raincoats ! Maybe about 45mins out someone spotted the first ‘blow’- the water the whale breathes out of it’s blowhole. We saw a few more, but they were a way in the distance. A smaller boat was keeping pace with us , but a few 100 metres away, the captain came on and said that they had radioed to say whales had been seen ½ a mile or so away. So it was full steam ahead- the little boat was faster, but boy was it bouncing – and the passengers looked like they were crowded on, I was pleased we’d booked the bigger boat. When we reached the area the whales had been spotted, the motors were stopped and we all stood at the bow staring at the water. The waves were quite big now and we had to hang on with one hand while holding the binoculars and camera with the other. A sealion came whizzing past- leaping out of the water and spinning and twisting – would have got a round of applause at seaworld, but we were like’ oh, another sealion, whatever’ ! Then someone spotted a whale on the right, just as the captain said ‘whales on the left’ suddenly they were all around us, the captain said they were humpbacks, maybe 15 in the group. A couple came really close, right up under the bow of the boat ( I had visions of the boat going over, like in jaws ! )We could hear the sound they made from their blow holes- a quiet sort of roar, but I wasn’t prepared for the smell. We were told that they exhale 98% of the air in their lungs – along with mucus and fish breath- and boy it stunk, a sort of putrid fishy smell that hung in the air. A couple of people were feeling a bit queasy and this nearly finished them off ! I took loads of photos, but as I was hanging on with one hand and the sea was rising up and down, I got a good few of the deck and sky before I got any of the whales ! Here are a few of the better ones.




We must have watched them for about an hour, before heading back to the harbor. I couldn’t believe our luck, so much for hoping for a glimpse !
It was still hot and sunny back in Monterey. We walked up the wharf and stopped at the Old fishermans grotto for lunch. We got a table by a window overlooking the water –and several large gulls were stood outside on the sill looking in- nothing like being watched while you eat ! I had chowder and ½ sandwhich, both were lovely, the basket of bread was gorgeous, could have eaten that alone, this was one of the nicest meals we had. It’s a good job I eat fish cos I would have struggled to find any interesting veggie dishes. Most places offered a veggie burger or sandwhich, but that was about it.


After lunch we crossed the street to the visitors centre to enquire about buses to carmel.For once we got an assistant who knew what she was talking about. She directed us to the transport plaza ( where the airbus had dropped some of it’s passengers yesterday ) and told us to take the no. 5 bus. Again, everything was clearly marked and we were soon on our way. Think the fare was something like $2 each. The bus goes via the Del Monte mall – I saw a Macys, not sure what else they had there. The ride takes about 15 mins. Once in Carmel , the boys demanded we head down the ( steep ) hill to the beach, we were still carrying bags of fleeces and rainjackets from the morning and it was now hot- I was thinking about the hike back up the hill later and not in the best of moods ! We had a little sit on the beach while the boys dug in the sand and rolled down the dunes, then slogged back up the hill into town. Not sure what to make of Carmel- strange mix of buildings, we saw tudor style cottages, quaint tea rooms that wouldn’t be out of place on an English village green, some French chateau type places, think there was even a thatched cottage in there some where. All very nice, but not sure they worked together. Majority of the shops were art galleries and craft shops, I would have liked to have a look around them ( I had some birthday money to spend ) but the boys were moaning it was boring- and I didn’t fancy taking them into smarter places anyway. After less than 2 hrs we were back on the bus to Monterey.



Back up the recreation trail - the seal pup was still on his rock, looking rather fed up, with water half way up his belly, poor thing!

We dumped our bags at the hotel and went out looking for dinner. It was only day 5 but we had already reached the ‘craving vegetables’ stage. I think we read every menu of every restaurant in Cannery row before we found Bullwhackers ( or might have been Bushwackers)The last thing I want to do on holiday is eat at an English style pub, but this one had a really nice menu- and it served veges !. DH had pot pie with mash and veges, I had parmesan crusted fish with some kind of grain and veges. Admittedly , the veges were sparse – I had one carrot and 2 sprigs of broccoli, but oh, they tasted good ! Very nice meal, and good service. I’d recommend the place.

Back to the hotel and another soak in the hot tub which wasn’t so hot tonight, think it had been turned off with no one using it.
Monterey aquarium tomorrow.

[Jools]

Another very busy day. Do you ever relax? I don't fancy the thought of the smelly air around the whales (where is that vomit emoticon)

More lovely photos and aw the little seal pup. I hope hismum came back for him

[Guest]

Another busy day for you guys, you certainly pack alot into one day.

Lovely photos again.

[coombsyl]

Another fab day. I had to laugh about the stinky whale breath

Carmel sounds a strange mix. I am really enjoying your trippies.

[Guest]

Carmel looks lovely. Glad you saw some whales too!

[Michelle]

What a experience to see the Whales, even with their stinky breath

Great day.

[highlander447]

Another great day, lovely pics

[Jools2]

I'm really enjoying reading your reports.

The whale watching looks fantastic. We managed to spot a few whilst driving up Highway 1, but I wish I could have got up close like you.

[DisneyMadAng]

Another busy day for you all. Your photos are fab.

[Guest]

Great that you got to see some whales more good photographs and another very busy day.