[folkie]

We were there a few weeks ago (also stayed as Maswik!). We got the bus out to Mojave Point for Sunset (on the recommendation of a bus driver), it was superb. You can look east and west from there. There were quite a lot of people but there was plenty of room unlike some of the other viewpoints where there isn't a lot of space with a good view.

If you head out that way you need to get in the bus queue very early, at least an hour before sunset, preferably earlier (take snacks but just be careful with drinks - there are no toilets at Mojave Point!). They increase the number of buses at that time but you'll still have a long wait. Or head out further west earlier in the day and catch the bus heading east to get there.

One important tip, don't rush with the crowd for the first bus back just after the sun's gone below the rim. You usually get the best colour just AFTER that especially if there's a bit of cloud to for the sun to reflect off, so hang around until it's darker. Despite what the signs say the buses don't just stop running at a set time, so there's no need to rush. The bus driver told us that they keep sending buses up on "mop-up" trips to bring people back until they're pretty sure there's no one left so you won't have to walk back down.