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Old 10 Jun 19, 09:39 PM  
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Location: Auld Reekie
Day 7: Around Jasper

It was cloudy and damp when we woke up this morning, which was a bit of a shame but you have to make the most of being on holiday in any case!

Breakfast was a Danish pastry we picked up at the supermarket the night before. Not a patch on a Disney danish but actually rather nice!

We decided to start the day by driving the Maligne Lake Road. Maligne Canyon is closest to Jasper and the lake is at the other end of the road; as it was dreary we decided to drive all the way out to the lake first, in the hole it might have dried up a bit by the time we got there.

On the way we did drive through some showers, but it did indeed clear up the closer we got to the lake and some blue sky started to peek through. We also got to see a couple of elk hanging out in the trees, near the river.

The lake itself was beautiful - still partially frozen but further on in the thaw than the lakes further south.

The stillness of the water made for some brilliant reflections.

I took a lot of pics but I will limit myself to two! We walked partway around the shoreline and just enjoyed the relative peace until it was shattered by the arrival of a coach trip LOL.

The elk were still hanging out in the trees as we drove back, seemingly unbothered by another busload of tourists literally reversing back up the road to get a glimpse of them! They knew just how to frustrate everyone though, staying just covered enough to make photos pointless.

On the way back down the road, we stopped at Medicine Lake. The grey clouds were still hanging over this area. We went for a short walk but part of the trail was blocked as there were a pair of eagles nesting - we could actually clearly see the white head of the female as she sat on their eggs in the nest, which was great.

This part of the road gave me a strong “Scotland” vibe with the scenery - must have been the grey skies! There was evidence of the huge wildfire of 2015 in the blackened trees on one bank, however.

Finally we parked up at Maligne Canyon for our final stop on this road. We started at the second bridge, before walking down to the third.

Then we made our way back up to the first bridge, saw some fossils (not as dramatic as I was expecting!) and decided it was time for a pit stop in the cafe.

Today’s diet so far has been heavily pastry-based! It was a nice cinnamon roll, which we shared; I had a peppermint tea while DH went for Earl Grey.

While we snacked we debated our next move and decided to head across to Patricia and Pyramid Lakes. The weather was still looking dicey but we decided to hope it would clear a little.

Last time we visited we stayed at Patricia Lake bungalows, which has a gorgeous outlook on the lake. Things weren’t looking so inviting this time though!

I didn’t envy the people out in the rented pedal boat.

We carried on to Pyramid Lake, and walked over the wooden bridge to the island in the middle. There, things started to look a bit more promising!

Blue sky!

As we walked onto the island, we could hear an animal repeatedly howling in the woods on the opposite shoreline - one of the signs confirmed this would be the local wolves. DH particularly thought this was cool.

There was a lovely wooden bench area on the island that was now directly in the sun, so we sat there for a while just enjoying the views (and the warmth).

When the breeze started to get up, we headed back to the car, and decided that since the skies were now blue we would stop again at a different point of Patricia Lake. This time we headed for the small beach area and it’s amazing how an hour can change the outlook!

Now that the weather had turned, DH decided we might drive back to Sunwapta Falls, which we’d driven past due to the rain the day before. He does love a waterfall! It was a bit of a drive but I was fine with this plan so, after a quick fuel stop in Jasper, we headed out.

The skies were blue and it was lovely and warm... until we reached the falls, where the skies were cloudy and rain threatened! Again, amazing how a matter of miles can change things - we’d seen that two days running now. As we’d driven all of this way, though, we were determined to see the falls!

Mercifully it stayed dry while we saw the upper Falls; we decided not to risk the further walk to the lower falls. We also decided we preferred the Athabasca falls to these ones.

We weren’t on the road back to Jasper long before the blue skies appeared and we thought we’d make the most of the trip with a stop at Horseshoe Lake, but then we missed the turnoff! For some reason, the lake isn’t signposted by name as you drive towards Jasper, only as you’re driving away. DH decided he wasn’t up for turning around again, so we carried on back to Alpine Village.

After a short rest we headed into Jasper for food. We hadn’t booked anything tonight as we didn’t fancy anything in particular. This is probably why we eventually ended up in Earl’s, which I understand is a Canadian chain.

They had a fancy cocktail menu in collaboration with someone I’m assuming is well known in Canada - on my continuing quest to try Canadian gin, I ordered the “Spanish gin and tonic” from this menu. Which took three attempts - when I repeated the drink’s name, the waiter asked me what it was and I had to show him it on the menu.

To be fair I could understand his confusion. The gin was Canadian (Eau Claire), the tonic British and I’m sure the only other ingredient (cucumber bitters) wasn’t Spanish either!

To start, we shared an order of rhino fries, which I assume is their take on poutine. Fries, gravy, mozzarella and spring onions.

Hard to think this would be anything other than delicious, and it was.

I wasn’t really feeling like eating anything in particular, and in the end I settled for pizza. Italia - Genoa salami, ham, chorizo, mozzarella, and chiffonade basil. Except I asked for it without ham, which I think was a sign of how much my heart wasn’t really in this choice. In any event it was nice enough - it’s hard to screw up pizza I think.

DH chose the chicken teriyaki bowl and enjoyed it.

We decided to skip dessert; I may have had an ulterior motive in that I’d spotted a sweet shop across the road and...

I ate this in bed when we got back to our accommodation! DH, meanwhile, ate his grizzly paw so fast I didn’t get a pic.
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Old 10 Jun 19, 10:19 PM  
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Join Date: Sep 18
Location: Auld Reekie
Originally Posted by OB1LukeLucas View Post
You were definitely right to stop, the pictures look great, and for needing a rest stop too...I like that he justified his chances with the bear that he could run faster than the other photographers!
A log cabin that smells of smoke, you can’t get more authentic than that-it really looks great. We have relatives over in Jasper so we really need to visit. Your food looks good, I could just eat the desserts.
To be fair DH was probably right that he could, I on the other hand could not!

It’s a beautiful part of the world, I don’t think you’d regret a visit!

Originally Posted by Twiggy1953 View Post
We’re staying at Alpine Village in September for 4 nights. Can’t wait!
It’s a lovely little place, I think you’ll have a great time.
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Old 10 Jun 19, 11:40 PM  
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Yummy...the grizzly paw looks delicious, I may go to sleep dreaming about it-not sure overnight oats for breakfast in the morning is going to inspire me! Beautiful views even if the day was a bit overcast.
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Old 14 Jun 19, 10:36 AM  
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Join Date: Sep 18
Location: Auld Reekie
Day 8: Jasper to Kamloops

Not the most exciting day today, as we spent most of it in the car driving to Kamloops, our stopping point on the way to Vancouver.

The weather was pretty dreich as well; it started to rain just as we waved goodbye to the Alpine Village, after finishing off the box of Danish pastries for breakfast.

Even with the dull weather, there’s still some spectacular scenery on the road.

Soon after hitting the road, we crossed the border from Alberta into BC and adjusted our watches back an hour.

We stopped at Mount Robson, where there’s a nice little visitor centre with clean bathrooms. We stopped there ten years ago and the sky was a beautiful blue; not so much today, where the cloud stubbornly refused to lift from the summit.

The rain fell on and off most of the journey, so we didn’t bother stopping anywhere else until we reached Clearwater, where it dried up for a while. I took a few snaps from the car which show how the sky started to clear.

At Clearwater we used the bathrooms in the visitor centre (I liked that they had a donation box, as the centre is staffed by volunteers doing a great job) before getting an ice cream from the Strawberry Moose Snackery, a busy little cafe just across the road.

We had maple walnut and “moose” flavours - the latter included mini reeses peanut butter cups!

As we’ve stopped at Kamloops before and know it’s not that exciting, I had originally planned for us to stop at Clearwater, but couldn’t get accommodation. If we had stopped, we probably would have headed into Wells Gray park to see the waterfalls, but as it was we decided to get back on the road for the final hour or so.

The rest of the drive was uneventful save for a few more showers along the way and we were soon checked into the Hampton Inn. I wanted to wash some clothes so we did a load of laundry ($2 each for the washer then dryer and you could buy detergent at reception). Kamloops seems to be a “tournament centre” and there were lots of teenagers who were clearly part of teams in the hotel, but this was the only time we heard or saw them.

For dinner, we headed to Romeos across the road. The Hampton reception can give you a discount card for it and trip advisor reviews suggested it was one of the better places in Kamloops, so we booked a table online shortly beside heading over.

We started with local wine:

and shared yam (sweet potato) fries with a spicy dip:

These were nice and crisp; I can’t stand soggy sweet potato fries.

For main I had the butternut squash ravioli:

And DH had pad thai:

Nothing earth shattering but tasty enough.

We decided against dessert but ended up sitting for a while watching the rest of the patrons get excited watching the Toronto Raptors qualify for the NBA finals; one guy had clearly abandoned a family party to sit in the bar watching and it took two attempts and an earful before he admitted defeat and went back to the party!

Back at the hotel, we used some of the change we’d collected on vending machine snacks but packed these up for later. We had an early night as we wanted to hit the road relatively early.

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Old 14 Jun 19, 10:39 AM  
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Originally Posted by OB1LukeLucas View Post
Yummy...the grizzly paw looks delicious, I may go to sleep dreaming about it-not sure overnight oats for breakfast in the morning is going to inspire me! Beautiful views even if the day was a bit overcast.
Going back to porridge and soup for breakfast and lunch has definitely been a bit of a disappointment!
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Old 15 Jun 19, 02:38 PM  
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Location: Auld Reekie
Day 9: Kamloops to Vancouver via Whistler

I’ve realised I got my days a bit mixed up and forgot to mention in yesterday’s report that while en route to Kamloops, we saw our second black bear! No pic of this one, as he was on the other side of the highway from us. We both spotted the dark shape from a way back but thought it might be a tree stump or something, however as we passed the “stump” raised his head and we realised what we’d seen was in fact a bear’s bottom! He was happily chomping away on something that looked like grass, I swear he smiled for us! We cheered

Back to another day of mostly car time! We were up at 7.30 as we wanted to be on the road by 8.30; DH had got confused when booking the hire car return time and, although we’d managed to extend it by two hours at pick up, we were a bit worried about making it on time. Before checking out, we headed to the breakfast room, as this meal is included.

There’s juice and hot drinks, a selection of cereals as well as oatmeal and toppings, a waffle maker, pastries, eggs and sausages. I had to try some maple sugar on my oatmeal, along with almonds.

I also added some hot sauce on my eggs!

The food was fresh and the room empty when we arrived, but it was starting to get busy as we left.

There are a couple of potential routes from Kamloops to Vancouver but we had decided to take Highway 99 all of the way, which we’ve done before - it is a spectacular road that goes high up into the mountains, particularly just after you leave Lillooet.

There’s even one high steep section where the road surface basically disappears and it’s one way traffic on shingle rock - not sure if it’s an area so prone to rockslides they don’t bother trying to lay the road, but it’s been that way both times we’ve driven it, ten years apart!

I’ll be honest, I’d been dreading this day a bit; as I hate heights I don’t exactly love the really high narrow bits, given the passenger side is usually closer to the edge and my memory suggested there’s not always a barrier. At least there was a vineyard nearby with an new and open tasting room where I could have stopped for sustenance...

Sadly we had no time today, but if there’s ever a next time...!

I’m joking here as I do obviously trust DH’s driving, and I also think the road has been generally upgraded since our last visit, so it wasn’t as bad as I’d remembered. And we were happily distracted at the major switchback section by a coyote who decided he was going to happily bound down the road barrier to meet us! If he can live life on the edge like that, I’ll be fine, right?

The road is single lane most of the way through the mountains but luckily it was fairly quiet this Sunday, so only a few RV overtaking manoeuvres were needed. It gets busier as you leave the major mountain section towards Squamish/Whistler, but it also becomes a dual carriageway.

We had decided to stop at Whistler - last time we visited the area it was just before the 2010 Winter Olympics and we went home with a Quatchi mascot, so we thought we should see his spiritual home!

I’m sure he’d approve that lunch was the first order of business. It was a lovely sunny day so we ordered sandwiches at Ingrid’s Village cafe and sat outside. My chicken pesto was delicious and felt almost healthy! DH went for his favourite, a Rueben.

We then made our way around the site, looking at the various Olympic landmarks.

We felt we’d earned a treat after that - well, walking is an Olympic sport - so found a place called COWS and ordered a “Cownadian maple” to share!

A browse of the gift shops and a bathroom break later, we were back on the Sea to Sky highway and heading to Vancouver.

We stopped again only to refuel the car and, despite our worries, were at the car rental return (in a hotel close to ours) only 15 minutes outside our agreed return time. Where it became apparent we needn’t have worried about the return time, because despite the rental company agreeing we could return the car there on a Sunday, it was in fact closed!

We were unsure what to do - we were able to park in one of the company’s marked spaces, so we took lots of photos to show the return time and the fact the car was undamaged. I decided we should head up to the hotel lobby in case there was at least a rental desk there - and if not hopefully someone at reception could suggest what we should do! There was indeed a rental desk there, and while it was unmanned it had a return box for keys, so we dropped in the keys and hoped for the best!*

We headed to our hotel - Hotel Blu. Although I’d booked this based on trip advisor reviews I was still surprised by how nice it was, LOL! There was one concierge in particular who was just lovely, he ended up chatting to DH as I spoke to reception and trust me, it’s difficult to get DH to chat with strangers!

After we’d recovered from the stress of the hire car return, we headed out for dinner. As we weren’t overly hungry after lunch DH suggested we go for a lighter bite and found a branch of Dunn’s Famous nearby.

Their speciality is smoked meat so I decided to try that; as DH had his Rueben for lunch he went for a Cuban instead. He added a side of poutine for us to share, and we both had fountain drinks. The food was tasty and just what we needed!

On the way back to the hotel we stopped at a supermarket for some snacks. We decided we had to try the flavours we don’t often see at home. I liked my blood orange Diet Coke but DH’s strawberry tasted like a fake milkshake to me; I wasn’t a fan. We still haven’t eaten the chocolate. We also got two boxes of maple cookies for our respective work colleagues and I got some different Hershey’s chips for baking.

Then we spotted Terry Fox plaza just down from our hotel, so walked down to take some photos before calling it a night.

* the confirmation of return came through the next day; the car company noted the car as returned 4 hours after we actually returned it and charged us extra as a result. Accordingly, I don’t recommend Enterprise.
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Old 15 Jun 19, 06:59 PM  
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Sparksy72's Reviews
Hotel Reviews: 1
Thank you for a wonderful report- your photos are stunning and you had some amazing meals as well!
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Old 16 Jun 19, 02:42 PM  
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Originally Posted by Sparksy72 View Post
Thank you for a wonderful report- your photos are stunning and you had some amazing meals as well!
Thanks for your comment. I still have a few days to write up but those were all city based so no more mountains!
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Old 16 Jun 19, 03:17 PM  
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Location: Auld Reekie
Day 10: Vancouver (Stanley Park)

Today we’d decided to get the bus to Stanley Park and walk the sea wall; last time we visited, my parents were definitely not up for the 8km or so walk, so I’d been looking forward to doing this.

We had breakfast included in our room rate so headed to the breakfast room. There was a buffet of cold items including mini quiches, meat platters, etc; on the hot side they had eggs and potato wedges. The food was nice but not sure I’d have paid $24 each for it! My favourite was the banana coconut overnight oats.

We checked which bus to get from which stop on our phone map apps, then a quick google confirmed we could use a contactless credit card to pay the fare. This all worked out well - the only confusing thing was that you have to open the back bus doors yourself to get off!

Nevertheless we’d made it to the waterfront, and the weather looked good for a nice walk. (This is why I packed shorts and sunscreen alongside the hat, scarf and gloves for the first half of the holiday!)

We took our time walking through the marina and taking pictures - they have separate areas for pedestrians and bikes so no worries about getting run over!

And I may have got a little excited on spotting the Disney Wonder at the dock...

Sadly DH did not respond to my asking if he’d booked a surprise cruise for me.

We checked out the totem poles (and the gift shop beside them):

Before starting our walk in earnest.

Shortly after passing Prospect Point, we took a small detour from the path to consider lunch at the Teahouse, but it was a 30 minute wait for a table so we decided to keep going.

By the time we reached the end of the sea wall, passing the swimming pool and beaches which were fairly busy for a random Monday, we hadn’t spotted anything that we fancied at the concession stands. We therefore decided to walk back through the park towards the Stanley Park pavilion, where Stanley’s bar and grill is situated. We passed by the pond:

And through the rose garden, arriving at our destination just before 3pm, the perfect time IMO for a late lunch/early dinner.

We were seated outside and the first order of business was, of course, wine!

We chose a Canadian offering again; it wasn’t the smoothest wine I’ve ever drunk but it was well chilled and just what was needed!

Food wise, we shared a hummus plate to start:

For mains we both chose fish: I went for fish and chips and DH salmon. I think I chose better - the batter was crisp and I had a fairly big portion, while DH’s salmon was unfortunately a bit dry.

I liked sitting there, enjoying the warm weather and drinking our wine. In fact when we finished the first I suggested we order another bottle! I’d thought DH would be on board with this, given he’d admitted to feeling tired when we’d been seated, but it turned out he felt recovered and ready to walk again. ?

As it's not as much fun drinking alone, I joined him on the walk to the Prospect Point lookout.

We arrived there just in time to see this beauty heading out into the ocean.

At this point my chances of convincing DH to take a Disney cruise in future took a hit, as he could clearly hear the loud pop music being played on board as they passed - that would be his worst nightmare.

(I’ll obviously keep trying.)

We then shared a maple walnut ice cream from the stand beside the gift shop:

Before deciding that since we’d been out for more than 9 hours now, it was probably time to go back to our hotel. We debated getting a bus but that turned into “let’s walk back down onto the sea wall and then from there, back to the hotel!”.

All told, we walked 20km that day! We were therefore happy to spend the remainder of our evening chilling in the hotel.

Edited at 07:49 PM.
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Old 22 Jun 19, 12:22 PM  
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Join Date: Sep 18
Location: Auld Reekie
Day 11: Vancouver (Granville Island)

Sadly we woke to find the blue skies of yesterday had disappeared and it was all a bit grey. We picked the right day to explore the park then!

Breakfast was in the hotel again; I tried the mango chia pudding which had the light gloopy texture I associate with chia pudding, so that’s something.

I had scrambled eggs and wedges as well but no picture, sorry.

We had decided today to head to Granville Island and check out the food market, so we walked down to David Lam park to catch one of the small ferry boats over.

There are two companies running these but the Aquabus turned up first, so we chose that one! It was a small boat and the driver did everything from boarding you to selling you tickets as he steered! We paid cash for two returns and got 4 paper tickets to show for the return journey.

The market has a food court section and a market section - we walked through the former to check out the latter first.

We soon found ourselves drawn to Stuart’s bakery.

As DH is a big fan of key lime tarts, we picked up one to share then found a spot by the window to eat it.

DH really liked it; I thought it was just ok, I would have liked a tarter flavour.

We then explored the area outside the market - there were a lot of little gift shops, where we browsed but didn’t buy anything. There was a separate children’s market with toy stores etc and the area around that was thick with children, there seemed to be some kind of festival on that a lot of school groups were visiting.

At least they’ve made an effort with the industrial site left in the area! Outside here they also had a mechanical display set up that moved metal balls through various cogs etc, which we watched for a while.

We were starting to get peckish so headed back to the market for lunch. As much as I love DH, he’s terrible at making decisions when it comes to where to eat, so it was probably a mistake to let him choose - I think he got bored looking around and just headed for the nearest place at the time, which sold mostly Chinese dishes.

We shared this, which was Kung po chicken and something else I can’t remember. We also got a bottle of water. It was only just ok, I think we’d have got better food at one of the other stalls.

We sat at one of the tables outside to eat it, where we witnessed someone else lose part of their lunch to a gull.

There are signs up saying that feeding the birds is considered animal cruelty in BC, and soon 3 or 4 little boys has surrounded the bird shouting “animal cruelty!” while watching in fascination! The bird didn’t seem that fussed...

I put myself in charge of dessert and headed back inside to Lee’s Donuts, which I’d seen recommended in a couple of places. Sadly they were out of donut holes, so I chose two doughnuts for us to share.

The darker one was meant to be cinnamon but it was disappointing flsvour-wise; despite the colour there was barely a hint of cinnamon. The other doughnut was lemon and it was a dream! Perfect texture and oozing with warm lemon curd, it was one of the best doughnuts I’ve ever had.

Bellies full, we got back on the Aquabus towards downtown.

There aren’t pictures from the afternoon as we spent it shopping. I picked up a few things from Old Navy, browsed in Cosch and Bath and Body Works, and had DH asking if I was sick because I didn’t buy anything in Sephora!

For dinner that evening I’d booked Blue Water Cafe, on the basis that we should try as much seafood as possible whilst in the Pacific Northwest and this place was highly recommended. I was glad I did book quite far in advance as it very busy considering it was a Tuesday night.

To start we shared sushi - albacore tuna sashimi and a dynamite roll. The tuna melted in your mouth, it was absolutely delicious, and we also enjoyed the roll.

There was also a bread service, and we ordered a bottle of Canadian Sauvignon blanc.

You can probably tell that the restaurant lighting was set to “mood”!

For main, I ordered Scallops - caramelised belgian endives, wild rice griddle cake, candied ginger and citrus butter.

The scallops were cooked perfectly, but there was a bit too much of the bitter endive for my tastes.

DH chose Ling Cod - chorizo sausage, eggplant, chickpeas, grape tomatoes, red pepper and smoked paprika sauce.

He enjoyed this and from the piece I tried, the fish was again cooked brilliantly.

We also shared truffle Parmesan fries because why not, we’re on holiday!

Things got a bit entertaining at dessert. When we arrived we were given a “congratulations” card, which I opened and thought was a bit strange, but didn’t think much more of. When my dessert turned up, however...

Which is lovely birthday is in August!

I think when booking, I must have ticked the birthday box on the basis DH’s was just after we came home, then promptly forgot about it! They presumably watched to see who opened the card we thought it was hilarious; at least no one sang to me!

And here was his non-celebratory dessert.

We enjoyed them, candle or no candle.

To finish DH had tea while I ordered an espresso martini. This was sadly a bit icy, but I never leave a cocktail behind.

Then we took a leisurely walk back to the hotel.

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