In the footsteps of Lewis & Clark - Day 7

[Guest]

DAY 7 If only we had hair to wear flowers in!

Friday 27th June 2014

We had set the alarm for 5a.m. This achieves two things: Darrin can sort any problems back home that might have arisen with his clients and I can get on with telling you about our travels. So far Darrin is doing rather well. India has not phoned. They have a knack of doing it at 4a.m. back in the UK! A certain architect has remained silent and credit management is still managing!

Cups of tea and coffee are made yet again and I munch on the salted crackers that came with the mussels last night but weren’t consumed. There is a complimentary breakfast included at this hotel. I always find it funny that “complimentary” actually means you’ve technically paid for it.

So, we have our steam train trip at 10a.m. up into the hills where we will see more Redwoods.

I wash the car windscreen as the top corner has been annoying me all the way down the coast. I can see it in shots when I look through the video viewfinder. This is a “road trip” so a fair bit will be video-ed on the road. Also the boot (trunk) door is filthy from all the fog, damp and drizzle we have driven through. So that gets a rinse too.

Breakfast is cereal – Cheerios and a waffle for me.



They have those incredible waffle irons – the ones that you flip 180 degrees to ensure all the batter is cooked. Smuckers “Maple Syrup” substitute completes the treat. I had remarked to one of the employees that the accommodation block wouldn’t look out of place at Walt Disney World.



You see what I mean?

I’m queried about this by the lady at the front desk who uses the name “Disneyland”. I tell her that I’m actually referring to Florida. “How do you mean?” she asks. I tell her to Google resorts at WDW and she’ll then see what I’m trying to say.

They ask if there are any problems or comments. We say that an elevator would be handy when moving luggage. Originally this was planned by the hotel but City Planning wouldn’t allow it because of the cliff location! The owner is currently pursuing ways it could be done hydraulically. We wish them luck.

We ask if we can store our luggage whilst we go ride the Skunk Train. This is located in central downtown some 20 blocks to the north.

Unlike last night when we did a “reccy” the place is buzzing. I had booked ordinary tickets but my other half wants to upgrade to parlor car. They are happy to oblige.



The “cars” (carriages) are like something out of a western with those metal end seats but with padded seating. All that is missing are the women in those big white bonnets!



What I didn’t know is the backs of the seats can be tilted the other way if the train was travelling in the other direction – just like the old Blackpool trams. (Trolley buses). Blackpool will be mentioned again later in this trip. We also have a little bar in this car. We will be located immediately behind the locomotive so that if you go to the end door behind the engine, you can see the engineer over the tender.



There is no coal these days. It’s all done with recycled vegetable oil! The railroad was originally built by the Fort Bragg Redwood Company as the Fort Bragg Railroad in 1885 to carry coast redwood logs from the dense forests at Glenela (Glen Blair) to a newly built lumber mill located 6.6 miles (10.6 km) to the west at coastal Fort Bragg, California.

The “45", which was built in 1924 for the Brownley Lumber company by the Baldwin Locomotive Company, will pull us out of town over three railroad crossings. She is a “Mikado” loco with a 2-8-2 wheel arrangement. (The anoraks will know what I’m on about.) Maybe it’s me but, with the railroad crossings, I love the ding, ding, ding of the warning bell and the red lights flashing as the locomotive travels over the streets and out of town. Amazingly, I’ve never heard of any accidents on these crossings like we get in the UK. People here treat trains with respect.

Built as a logging railroad in 1885 by Charles R. Johnson, the “Redwood Route” was a logical vehicle for moving massive redwood logs to Mendocino coast sawmills from the rugged backcountry. The train played a vital role during this time in transporting families and workers who set up the various logging camps along the route and in doing so, became an entirely different type of line. It played an important part not only in the area's industrial life, but also in its social and cultural activities. No other logging railroad in America has made the deep impression on American life that was created by the line from Fort Bragg – first by the natural beauty of its route and later, by the distinctiveness of its equipment.

Today cars have been added so tourists can take the route. The “45” reverses to take on water, clanging its bell as it does so and it’s not long before we are allowed to board the parlor car. We slowly start to leave Fort Bragg behind and we pass through leafy countryside and into the Redwood forest. The whistle blows – Oh! How I wish I was in the locomotive cab. I have driven a steam train in Cornwall – it’s the ultimate “boys and their toys” experience. The “Skunk” reference is to the Skunk trains that also run on this line. They are gas powered and made an awful stench as they went along – hence the nickname. At least we are steam.





The track is international standard gauge (4ft 8 ½ inches – the average width of a horse’s rear if you didn't know. Trains were pulled by horses before steam came along.) It was built by Chinese workers who often put their lives at risk. Those who survived were often not accorded US citizenships! OK – enough of the history stuff.

The growth around us is like ancient rain forest with ferns and bushes from which soar the mighty Redwood trees. When you look up it’s like gazing at nature’s skyscrapers.



The tallest specimen on the route is 400 feet high - the Hyperion which I've mentioned on Day 6. One thing you will notice on the trunks are large black areas - these are scorch marks from the many lightning bolts that hit during summer storms. Yet the rees survive.

In our train car we are served with little quiches, cheese, biscuits etc. and we can wine taste. There are 5 reds and 5 whites - all Californian - plus some dessert wines. You can buy by the glass or the bottle. The front of the car has a little door – quite heavy because it’s steel – which takes you out onto a small viewing balcony area right behind the train’s tender. The loco has been converted to burn veg.oil fuel instead of coal mainly for cost and environment reasons. You still have to watch out for smuts and bits flying in your face from the chimney stack. Chicken netting is pushed into the top of it - this prevents sparks emitting into the air and maybe setting fire to the surrounding vegetation. A lot of the hill areas are on high fire alert at the moment. If you watched the news last summer you would have seen the devastation that wild fires can cause.

The route is 21miles long up to Northspur. It has 331 curves – up here there are literally log cabins. This is where the lumberjacks would have lived. There is no road in or out. The only way to reach these shacks is by the train. Talk about remote!





After about 90 minutes we reach the aforementioned Northspur. We have about 45 minutes to get lunch. There is a BBQ which sell burgers, hot dogs, fries etc and a couple of souvenir type stalls. We grab cheese burgers and postcards and settle at a picnic table beneath the amazing Redwoods.



We’re joined by a couple from our carriage – Jennifer and Jason from Denver who are biking their way around the USA. They had wanted a Harley Davidson and had hired a few to see which they liked.



They finally settled on an Electra Gilde model where Jennifer can sit at the back in an almost armchair like seat with all mod cons to hand. I won’t say I’m envious but……………………

Jason does something in security and runs his own company. Really nice people. We chat away and, as usual, they are surprised when we say over the years we have covered 28 of the 50 states.
Whilst we are eating and talking the locomotive has gone to a turning circle, turned 180 degrees and by means of a passing point, has now gone to the other end of the train.



Our car is now effectively the caboose. The train whistle blows and it’s time for “All aboard”. As we journey back towards Fort Bragg we are joined by the “Train Singer”, one Greg Schindel. He does all the old ones – “City of New Orleans”, “16 tons” etc. and he is good. So good we bought the CD which he personalises and autographs for us.

This is his website: trainsinger

We say our goodbyes to everybody and then head back to our hotel where we left our suitcases in storage whilst we did the train trip. We traverse along State Road 20 to Willits so we can rejoin the 101. No coast road for us today. We need to get on our way to San Francisco.

We are booked in for three nights at the Kimpton’s Monaco on Geary Street. We make good time passing down through Mendocino County and then into Sonoma. The route is lined by endless vineyards with so many names we recognise. (Does that say something about us?)
170 miles later under clear blue skies we reach the north side of the Golden Gate Bridge. The traffic is slow moving because they are building a new earthquake proof approach road system leading up to the bridge at a cost of $2 billion. No wonder they have introduced a road toll - but only if you are heading south. You can pre pay the $7 by phone or internet. They do not take cash. It’s all done with licence plate recognition. As we get nearer to the bridge we encounter the famous fog (sea mist) which is pouring down the hillside and across the road. It drifts across the famous International Orange structure which straddles the Golden Gate entrance to the Bay area. The architecture is so art deco. Something we learn later is that the two famous vertical structures are not 100% vertical. They lean 6 inches away from the shores so that they keep the cables taught!



We enter San Francisco and our Sat Nav guides us to our hotel. We are on the corner of Geary and Taylor.



Just down the way are two theatres, the Curran and the Geary. Right opposite is Walgreens. We have found Mecca! No USA trip is complete without a visit to Walgreens. It is a standing joke that we always get something that requires an ointment, plaster (Band Aid) or pain killer and on one ocassion an ear syringe! Don't ask!



We always carry a first aid bag with minimum supplies. Walgreens is also a very good source of Ghirardelli chocolate souvenirs too.

So once we are checked in we sort a few things out and then head on out towards Union Square and ultimately Market Street. We had glibly said we don’t need to buy any clothes on this trip (Oh! Foolish mortals!) but on our first night here at least 4 garments are purchased. We note that the Nordstrom Centre has been taken over by the Australian Company, Westfield. Our restaurant of choice tonight has to be the Elite Café on Fillmore Street. To get there we have to catch the No 3 bus. At the bus stop there is a French couple (I heard some of their conversation re hotel location) who look totally lost. I ask “Vous etes perdu ?” The man speaks a little English. They are trying to get to their accommodation which is located near Sutter and Laguna but weren’t sure about the route. We get them to their destination and they are really grateful. The young lady was getting quite upset before I intervened but whilst I chatted with them on the bus she calmed down. I can be a knight in shining armour when I try! Modest too!

The Elite Cafe was recommended to us nearly 9 years ago and we have been coming back ever since.



It can be noisy due to the acoustics but tonight they give us a private booth so the noise is subdued. The food, especially the seafood, is excellent. Darrin has seafood gumbo.



I have chosen Jambalaya.



Both dishes are certainly delicious and spicy. Darrin chooses a chocolate mousse for dessert but I just have to try the blueberry pie milkshake. It’s thick and creamy with that great blueberry taste but you can also taste the pastry of the pie case. I ask the server how they do that. It’s simply Graham Crackers blitzed in a blender and added to the milkshake. It certainly works for me.



We are back at the Kimpton – Monaco hotel (by bus) by 10:30p.m. and we both fall into bed, full and content. As I drift to sleep I hear Scott McKenzie in my brain singing "If you're going to San Francisco...


Car mileage today: 171 Total mileage so far: 1167 miles

trip Report INDEX: http://DIBB.in/9823405

[Eeyore rocks]

Another great day...love the photo looking up at the redwoods.

[Guest]

They were just completely breathtaking Jenny. When you think you are looking at some of the largest plants on the planet. Amazing what nature can do.

[Taffy1959]

Another great day I love the scenery

[Guest]

The Redwoods are astonishing. As I said, it's our first time of seeing them. More incredible scenery to come by the way!

[abiknox]

Ah San Fran! Ill enjoy reading this as we are visiting in September Also, I see you have answered my question on a previous day about the number of States you have visited. Amazing.

[MarionG]

Wonderful day, that Blueberry pie milkshake sounds divine...yum..
Funnily enough everytime time we are in Orlando we have to visit Walgreen for something medicinal. This year was insect bite cream courtesy of our visit to Big Cat Rescue (the cream I brought with us didn't do a lot of good, their stuff did) and an ear wax remover kit for our son!

[Guest]

I love the way their Hydrocortisone cream doesn't contain an incy wincy amount like UK versions do! We always stock up on the extra strength paracetamol (acetminophen). My local chemist would have a fit if I asked for 500 tablets!

[Guest]

San Francisco is my dream holiday location. One day. I tell thee, one day I will get there.

[Guest]

Originally Posted by Prattmanbegins

San Francisco is my dream holiday location. One day. I tell thee, one day I will get there.

See more...

Do so. It is our favourite US city. Los Angeles - I wouldn't give you tuppence for it.