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Old 7 Apr 16, 07:33 PM  
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Grand Train Journey across USA - Day 8

DAY 8 – ( 25th June 2006) - Salt, melons, dinosaurs ...

Whilst Darrin snored his way from Nevada to Utah, I had a bad night. We’ve passed into Mountain time zone. I turn and shift for several hours but I just can’t get to sleep. You’d think the rocking of the train would lull me into the arms of Morpheus but he isn’t around tonight. It’s a full moon and I witness the Great Salt Lake – all 35 miles of its width. It looks quite eerie in moonlight.

It is the largest natural lake west of the Mississippi River.

At the current level the Great Salt Lake is approximately 75 miles long . Located in several wide flat basins, a slight rise in water lever expands the surface area of the lake considerably. The first scientific measurements were taken in 1849 and since then the lake level has varied by 20 feet, shifting the shoreline in some places as much as 15 miles.

Great Salt Lake is salty because it does not have an outlet. Tributary rivers are constantly bringing in small amounts of salt dissolved in their fresh water flow. Once in the Great Salt Lake much of the water evaporates leaving the salt behind.

Dawn breaks over the lake:



This photo – not mine- shows the railroad track that crosses the salt flats of the lake.



Darrin finally rises to a spectacular sunrise over the Great Salt Lake Desert.



Everywhere looks like fine snow has been scattered on the ground amongst the scrubby flora but it is in fact salt! In parts it’s like a lunar landscape.

Guess what? Yes, we are running being schedule.
We eventually reach Salt Lake City – four hours late! Salt Lake was founded in 1847 by Brigham Young and other pioneers seeking freedom to practice their beliefs. Mormon influence still dominates this pretty valley. The heart of the Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints church is here more commonly referred to as Mormons. The six spired temple is only open to Mormon Church members.



However, you can visit the Family Search Centre at the Joseph Smith Memorial Building.. I guarantee you’ll find yourself and your family in its records. They have over two and a half million rolls of microfilm all containing birth and death lists from around the world.

Salt Lake City stands below the Wasatch Mountain Range:



We pass through Provo, again founded by Mormons and home to the pop singing Osmond family.

At Soldier Summit we’re 7,440 feet above sea level. It gets its name from the US Army soldiers who were buried here in 1860. Today it’s a ghost town.

We pull into Helper at 10:05 a.m. (Mountain time – British Summer Time minus seven hours) – the name derives from the extra locomotives that were used to help westbound trains on the inclines.

Next up is Green River – a canteloupe and water melon growing area. We’re not far from the famous Arches National Monument which is to the south – east.

At Ruby Canyon we pass from the State of Utah and into Colorado.

We descend a pass through Fruita. Grand Junction will not be far away.



Fruita advertises itself as having some of the world’s best hiking trails, mountain biking routes and outdoor vacation spots. Not that we will be doing any of that! The area was originally a fruit producing area but it’s also famous as being the site where at Dinosaur Hill (as it is now known), in 1901, two thirds of a skeleton of an Apatosaurus Excelsus was discovered – that’s a Brontosaurus to you and me. It is the finest specimen ever found.

We arrive at Grand Junction. It has three rail – road stations – thankfully two of them are closed so there’s no confusion. We’ll be re-joining the Zephyr in a couple of days’ time.



We pick up a shuttle to the car rental place that allows us to pick up our Ford Escape and drive the 160 miles to Durango - this takes about 4 hours. Speeds are slow in places due to the climb up the mountains – but, oh, the scenery. The North of Colorado has mesas and promontories.



You imagine John Wayne riding through at any minute.

As we head further south in the car the scenery starts to change.

Passing through the "alpine" town of Ouray (pronounced Ooray) we note the “Western” looking frontages.




We need to climb over Red Mountain to the valley on the other side.



This valley and its mountains give the name "Switzerland of the South"

Our elevation ranges from 5000ft at Grand Junction (although it seems flat) to 7000 feet at Ouray to 11,000 feet at the peak. The air is rare here but swallowing it is like iced water. We climb down slowly to the town of Silverton - we'll be back here tomorrow on our next "train" adventure - and then on to Durango - our base for the next couple of days.

We finally arrive at Durango - a few hours later than planned.

Our hotel, the Strater, is a fabulous old “Victorian” hotel, complete with saloon and stage.







The Strater been recently refurbished with everything looking the part in this wild-west town.

A meal of steak and fries and we are more than ready for our bedstead. Note the overhead wooden canopy.



Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz!

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Edited at 08:26 PM.
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Old 7 Apr 16, 07:45 PM  
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Geoff. The Strater looks like the type of place I would love to stay. So 'old America' I think.
The elevated track the train crosses over the salt flats, is that man made? One suspects so.
Lovely pictures and a nice insight into true America.
I wonder why they have so many records stored at Joseph Smith? Is it to show links to where the fore fathers came from?
Such an interesting read - well done.
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Old 7 Apr 16, 08:00 PM  
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Mr Tom Morrow:
Geoff. The Strater looks like the type of place I would love to stay. So 'old America' I think.
The elevated track the train crosses over the salt flats, is that man made? One suspects so. I assume so. I presume the rail - road builders. The lake is very popular and people do go swimming in it.
Lovely pictures and a nice insight into true America.
I wonder why they have so many records stored at Joseph Smith? Is it to show links to where the fore fathers came from? I believe the intention is to convert everyone in the world to the Mormon beliefs. I don't want to be contentious but Jesus giving golden plates to a young boy in America? Mmmmm!
Such an interesting read - well done.
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Old 8 Apr 16, 10:29 AM  
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Such a fascinating read Geoof, really enjoying this trippie and learning so much on each day you post.

Really goes to show how much there is to see in the States. Durango looks like it's come straight out of a western film. The hotel looks fantastic. Looking forward to reading more.
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Old 10 Apr 16, 12:29 PM  
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Ahhh...proper old American buildings... and shocking...Darrin hasn't had fish for 2 days now...

The first picture is stunning.

Thanks for sharing.
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Old 19 Apr 16, 06:19 PM  
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What a change in scenery, Brilliant

Love the hotel and bed

Do you have to turn up at the station on the time your train is due or can you check if it is running late?

Lesley and Melvin
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Old 19 Apr 16, 06:29 PM  
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Originally Posted by Melvin Pearce View Post
What a change in scenery, Brilliant

Love the hotel and bed

Do you have to turn up at the station on the time your train is due or can you check if it is running late?

Lesley and Melvin
You don't have to go to the station, you can call the 800 number or use the Amtrak app.
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Old 21 Apr 16, 01:33 PM  
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Originally Posted by Melvin Pearce View Post
What a change in scenery, Brilliant

Love the hotel and bed

Do you have to turn up at the station on the time your train is due or can you check if it is running late?

Lesley and Melvin
They advise that you call the station at least an hour before. Comes as a shock when they tell you you have 12 hours to kill! They didn't have an App back in 2006.
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Old 16 Feb 17, 10:56 PM  
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more fantastic photos
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