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Old 12 Jun 19, 08:54 PM  
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DisneyDaffodil
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Originally Posted by skalexander View Post
Its essential to have a holiday or two (or more!) in the pipeline for afterwards though, helps with the blues!
I completely agree with you (as my countdown shows 😀 )
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Old 12 Jun 19, 09:45 PM  
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Day 5 – Lake Nakuru to Maasai Mara

We were up early-ish and away at around 8am this morning, and drove around 2.5 hours to Lake Naivasha where we were going on a boat trip.

I somehow ended up in a boat without my Dad, which was fine, and with a group of ladies I’d only spoken to briefly before so it was nice to be with new people. That said, one of the ladies was a bit of a know it all and if she’d been in my van I’m not sure she wouldn’t have ended up as lion food, if she carried on this way all the time.

They were rowing boats and I was actually quite nervous as I do not enjoy that kind of sailing, especially in unknown waters. However, I did chill out. It was a lovely hour going around the lake, we saw hippos, lots of birds and some zebra and giraffes on the land next to the lake. It was a lovely way to break up the journey.



We drove an hour or so afterwards and then pulled into a picnic area, with shaded picnic tables and bathroom facilities (through a gift shop – notice the theme?) Lake Nakuru Lodge had prepared picnic boxes for us all which were full of food – sandwiches, rolls, a huge lump of cheese, apple, orange, yoghurt and cake. I avoided the bread and cake in Kenya as I realised early on that its rock solid, but I was satisfied with the rest. The staff in the shop gathered up the rubbish and appeared to be keeping the things still wrapped which hadn’t been eaten so it seems there wasn’t waste.

We drove for another couple of hours and arrived at the Maasai Mara. Mustafa, the tour director, was beside himself with excitement as the migration from Tanzania had started early. It was incredible to see the large herds of zebra and the huge swathes of wildebeest all around us. If we looked carefully into the distance, we could just about make over the wildebeest running over the top of the hills in Tanzania on their way into the Mara. Normally its between the end of June and August, but we had hit the jackpot again. We did a game drive on the way to the hotel, taking the very long way round, and we were so lucky again, seeing a momma cheetah with 3 cubs, not babies but clearly still dependant.



We also saw lions, which had eluded us in Samburu. Unfortunately, we encountered an irresponsible safari guide whilst viewing the lions. When animals were located, everywhere we went guides were good to give their guests a view, and then move to let other vehicles in. The lions were all chilling out so they weren’t going anywhere. However, one guide couldn’t wait and drove across the (very long) grass in front of us, almost colliding with one of the sleeping lions (they popped their head up as he passed) and he did the same on the way back, except the lion actually had to move. Fortunately, Rashid (and he tells us, from listening to the radio, several other guides) reported this man. Rashid and Mustafa said the authorities do deal with these issues and have a strict 3 strike policy – first time US$100 fine, second time US$300 fine and third time removal of park permit. Fortunately, he was the only such moron we saw during our trip.



After the lions we called it a night and headed off to our hotel, where we would be for 2 nights. It was lovely, as all the others had been, and was again a main building with rooms accessed via outside paths. Seemingly Prince Charles had previously stayed at the hotel, amongst other well-known people, so Dad reckoned we were in good company. The hotel appeared a bit bigger than others we had stayed in so there was a reasonable sized bar area, and seating in the lobby where I spent time reading my kindle during our stay.

We were warned that there was a hippo pool at the hotel and that the hotel was not closed off from the park, so we were advised to call for an escort if going to or from our rooms after dusk until before sunrise. On the first night, I asked our guide whether they actually got animals in the grounds, as it seemed overkill, and he shined his torch about 50 metres away and there was an adult hippo – okay, so maybe not overkill after all!

When we got to our room it was also very nice, although Dad had to swap the kettle as it didn’t work. This was the first hotel where we had a bath, and I was dying for a soak as hadn’t had one since before we left home (and before the half marathon) but there was no plug and in any event it felt too decadent in an area short of water, even if water is reused. The shower was excellent though – well powered, decent size shower head and beautifully hot! I tried the shower out, went for dinner (more delicious food) and then retired to bed. We had a game drive starting at 6am the following morning.
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Old 14 Jun 19, 05:36 AM  
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What another fabulous day (apart from the idiot guide!)
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Old 14 Jun 19, 05:33 PM  
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Day 6 - Maasai Mara

So today was probably my favourite day of the holiday, it was just brilliant. We had an early start, around 6am, and headed out on a game drive. Today we were hunting for lions!

The experience of a good guide really came into play today. We came across a group of zebra and Rashid said they were on edge and they all seemed to be looking towards one direction, so he suspected there was a cat nearby. Sure enough, a lion comes striding towards us, but she wasn't interested in the zebras, so we assume she had already eaten.



A bit more driving and we came across a group of lions. They had obviously eaten as they were panned out.



We moved on a short way and another female lion was coming towards us, followed by a male who had obviously had a hard life, and a young male. Rashid said the young male would soon be kicked out to find his own pride, or might possibly have a scrap with his Dad for control. We saw a bit of affection between father and son with the young male putting his tale around his Dad.



Rashid saw some vultures a short way away and said he thought there might be a kill in that area, and therefore more lions nearby. We found a wildebeest with only its ribcage/spine, one foot and tail remaining. I didn't take any pictures! We then saw another female lion and she looked like her tummy was quite full - not pregnant, just full of food!



Having had our lion fix for the day we carried on, seeing zebra and wildebeest in their hundreds. I managed to snap this lone zebra, which was my favourite photo of the holiday, I think.



We went down to the river which is on the border with Tanzania, and saw the wildebeest running through the river into the Maasai Mara, which was just incredible.



Time was ticking on and we went to an open area, where we met the rest of the vans and sat down on picnic blankets for a packed breakfast. Would never have imagined picnicing in the middle of the Maasai Mara but it did not disappoint. I have to say the packed breakfast was a bit odd, but there was fruit and yoghurt, so I was happy!

We went back to the hotel and returned for around 11.40am, so we'd been gone quite awhile! It was a bit grey and not overly warm, and it did look like rain was on the cards. I got changed and went to view the hippo pool at the hotel. They have 60 hippos there, and it is open to the rest of the park so there was zebra and wildebeest around the pool when I visited.

We had lunch and then I had a quick nap. I didn't sleep overly well for most of the trip, as I struggle to sleep in warm weather (even a warm-ish night at home is a struggle), so I was glad of an hour to recharge my batteries.

We went out to visit the Maasai village at around 3pm. This was not a part of the trip I was especially looking forward to, as I felt uncomfortable at the idea of gawping at people in their homes. When we got there we were welcomed with singing and dancing, by the men and women, and the men had a jumping contest to see who could jump the highest. We then went into the village and there were goats, puppies and dogs everywhere. It was a bit distressing to see the boy dogs mounting a girl dog and scrapping over her.

We were invited into the homes of the Maasai which were tiny huts made of twigs and cow dung. When we went in the heat hit us, there were pots of some food bubbling away on a fire and the smell was pungent. In the hut I visited there would be 10 people - husband, his 2 wives and his 7 children! I was glad to make a quick exit to the outdoors to be honest.

We then visited the Maasai market. Dad and I were escorted by James (probably not his name), who was around 15 and offered my Dad 10 cows for me. Dad said if he made it 15 they had a deal. Fortunately, they were joking. I know its their way of life but I cannot imagine being sold to a man I don't know in exchange for livestock.

I bought a couple of bits which I doubtless paid over the odds for, but I had currency (and came home with a load) and they need the money more than me. There was quite a lot of pressure to buy, but Mustafa had said not to give in to pressure if we didn't want to buy anything, as money had been donated to the village for accommodating our visit. We had brought sweets from home for the children and before we left some of these were dished out. There were loads of children, who seemed to appear from nowhere.

After the village we did another game drive. We saw a black rhino in the distance which was the highlight.





Another dinner and early night, as were were getting up at 4.30am for a hot air balloon ride!
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Old 14 Jun 19, 05:49 PM  
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Brilliant photos, I think the photo of the zebra is my favourite so far, great pics of the lions too.
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Old 14 Jun 19, 07:10 PM  
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Wow again! What an experience!
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Old 14 Jun 19, 08:56 PM  
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Fantastic to see all the animals you saw in their natural habitat - bit of a change to the AK Safari and your photo's are great. The Zebra one deserves to be blown up on canvas as a lasting memory of your trip.
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Old 14 Jun 19, 10:03 PM  
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Originally Posted by DisneyDaffodil View Post
Brilliant photos, I think the photo of the zebra is my favourite so far, great pics of the lions too.
Originally Posted by Mel49 View Post
Fantastic to see all the animals you saw in their natural habitat - bit of a change to the AK Safari and your photo's are great. The Zebra one deserves to be blown up on canvas as a lasting memory of your trip.
Thank you, I am no photographer but I’m really pleased with the zebra, I was obviously in the right place at th3 right time. I’ve ordered a set of gallery picture frames (like this - johnlewis/gallery-pe...t-of-7/p365993) and the zebra will be going in the middle
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Old 17 Jun 19, 09:26 AM  
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Day 7 - Maasai Mara to Nairobi

So all too quickly we were on the last day of our adventure.

It was a very early start - 4.30am - as were doing a hot air balloon ride. It was eye-wateringly expensive at US$450 each but Dad said we had to do it. There was one other person from our tour group doing it, and we’d gotten to know this lady quite well over the week, so we were in good company.

We were collected from the hotel at 5.15am and drove across the Mara. I couldn’t say how long we drove for but it was still dark when we arrived. We watched whilst the balloons were inflated and we were split into groups, and then within our groups we were split again into 4, as the basket is divided into 4 sections plus the middle section for the pilot. Unfortunately, it was our group which was split up, so Dad was over the other side of the balloon.



You have to get into the hot air balloon whilst the basket is on its side, and I was not remotely graceful! The basket then tips upright as it goes up. One thing in Kenya, being on the equator, is it goes from dark to light very quickly, so by the time we went up it was light and we had a great view. I was however disappointed that we’d missed sunrise, the sun came up 10 mins before we got going.

Apart from the swathes of zebra and wildebeest migrating, we didn’t see a huge amount from the air and without the migration it would probably have been, dare I say it, a bit dull, but it’s luck of the draw. Our pilot also gave us some facts which when verified with Rashid and Mustafa weren’t accurate, e.g. he said there is one black rhino in the Mara, but Rashid and Mustafa said there’s around 40!



After around an hour we landed - you sit down in the basket but it stays upright. It was smooth, I’ve definitely had rougher landings on Flybe flights into the Isle of Man on a blustery day! We got out of the basket by climbing over the edge.

We were then driven to have breakfast, which was lovely. There was lots and lots of choice, and it was really tasty. The experience was slightly soured by the American family sitting opposite. Husband was pleasant enough, even if he did talk a lot about how to defeat the IRS and stop them finding your money in Europe, so he clearly wanted us to know he had enough money that he needed to worry about hiding it. However, wife was dour and miserable, complained about everything, nothing of which warranted complaints in my view. There was also a daughter, I’d guess around 14, who sat down for the whole balloon ride and sat at breakfast with her shades on pouting. She was unhappy that id gotten the only strawberry yogurt at our end of the table but made no effort to see if there were any more. They didn’t spoil our day but I just thought wow, how can anyone be unhappy on a trip like this. Each to their own of course.

We didn’t get a lift back but rather Rashid came to collect us, as time was of the essence. Before we left the pilot tried to flog us the go pro video and pictures of the flight for US$40. We weren’t interested, we were there to see the animals not pictures and videos of ourselves. When we got back to the hotel we hadn’t time for a quick change, brush teeth and throw everything in our cases before it was time to go. I felt sad as we drove out of the Mara, and didn’t take any photos of the animals we saw, I just enjoyed looking at them.

We drove 3 hours or so to Nyeri when we had a toilet stop and grabbed a snack before hitting the road again. A couple of hours later we stopped again for a toilet break (through the souvenir shop) and to take in some views, which were beautiful.



We arrived at the Giraffe Centre just outside Nairobi around 4pm. I am a huge giraffe fan and I’d worn my giraffe tshirt especially! We were given bags of food and we made our way to the area where the giraffes were. They took the food out of your hand or, if you wanted, out of your mouth. Naturally I had to have a kiss with a giraffe! No picture of me, but there is a picture of my Dad.



We stopped in the souvenir shop and I bought myself an elephant model from Ocean Sole. They’re a not for profit company which collects discarded flip flops, washes them and turns them into art. They’re available in the UK, but it is a Kenyan venture.

We moved on to Carnivore restaurant for dinner. It is a table service restaurant serving exotic meats, but they had a reasonable menu for vegetarians and pescatarians.

After dinner, we made our way through the crazy Nairobi traffic to our home for the night - Fairmont The Norfolk Hotel. I personally would rather we had missed Carnivore, gone straight to the hotel and eaten there. We arrived too late to make use of the pool or the gardens, and its a real shame as it was beautiful from what we saw. I think this view was shared by most people, and when I spoke to the Tour Director he agreed and said he would be feeding that back to Newmarket Holidays, but asked that we did too to reinforce the message.

At the Fairmont, we waved farewell to Rashid and the other guides, who were heading home for a well-earned rest, as we were due to be getting a larger bus to the airport the following morning.

When we arrived at the Fairmont, we all had to be security screened, along with our baggage before we could get into the hotel. It was also gated, and the people on the gate were armed. Another sign of the times, but reassuring from my point of view. We checked into our room, but met up in the bar area with the 2 couples from our van. After a few drinks, we all retired as it was going to be another early start.
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Old 27 Jun 19, 04:13 PM  
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This looks great! We have just started discussing a safari for our honeymoon. Your trip report makes me consider it more.

Did you feel unsafe in Nairobi? I know that there are risks to westerners. Did you feel unsafe at any other point on your trip?
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