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28 Sep 20, 01:33 PM |
#11
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Thread Starter
Relaxing at the Grand Floridian
Join Date: Sep 17
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Do you think it would be a good idea just to replace all the radiators and hopefully the pipework is still in good condition,and just get a heating engineer in to replace the boiler?I am not trying to put you on the spot its just we know someone who has replaced radiators in the past but not a plumber just a very competent diyer who would be happy to do the radiators,because as novices we see the main components to be new boiler which we need an expert to fit,change radiators which we can do,existing pipework fingers crossed should be ok and repair if needed or are we being naive as to the work involved
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28 Sep 20, 01:35 PM |
#12
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Thread Starter
Relaxing at the Grand Floridian
Join Date: Sep 17
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28 Sep 20, 01:42 PM |
#13
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Imagineer
Join Date: Jul 14
Location: The Tiki Room.
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If you do go down the route of buying your own Rads be careful you get what you want.
I have just checked 2 websites for a 600mm x 1200mm single panel Rad. The one site is selling them for under £20 but the BTU heat output is only 2524 I would use Wolsley at £56 with a heat output of 3897. You get what you pay for. Edit. I don't like Screwfix Rads. Thin steel. Valves etc brilliant however.
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"PAGING MR MORROW, MR TOM MORROW..." ''I drink Wine and know things'' DVC Owners at SSR since 2003. Multiple annual visits to America since 1976 |
28 Sep 20, 01:49 PM |
#14
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Imagineer
Join Date: Feb 13
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Personally, if there is rust showing, I would be assuming that the inhibitor had been diluted and that all the radiators were starting to rust from the inside. So would be replacing them all and the valves. If one is rusting, you could just replace that one, but in all likely hood another will need replaced in a few months; and another etc. etc.
Replacing radiators is not difficult and I have done many in the past, so if you trust the DIY friend and you cant get a plumber, then that is an option. As Mr TM says, dont just check the size, but also the BTU/KW output ratings as it is this that matters. There are different specifications in terms of numbers of panels and number of convectors (the wriggley bits between the panels). These all add to the output. |
28 Sep 20, 01:50 PM |
#15
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Imagineer
Join Date: Feb 13
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28 Sep 20, 02:18 PM |
#16
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Imagineer
Join Date: Feb 08
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The other guys are professionals but from my novice point of view when we replaced the nearly 50 year old boiler in the house we bought last year, we were warned, and it did happen in about 3 places, that with the new powerful boiler and the flush out that we could find leaks happening. The boiler company were fab and came out each time and fixed them with no charge. The last one was the worst as we just kept seeing the pressure dropping but couldn't find the leak! Our leaks were 2 at joints and one was a leaky end bit where you drain the system - not sure of the real name. We also discovered that the pipework is a very random design of how it runs round between the rads so when we have had rads replaced we have had to have new pipework too
Think you would have to have a boiler connected as that has the pump bit in to push the water around! Good luck with it all
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28 Sep 20, 02:33 PM |
#17
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Thread Starter
Relaxing at the Grand Floridian
Join Date: Sep 17
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28 Sep 20, 02:44 PM |
#18
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Thread Starter
Relaxing at the Grand Floridian
Join Date: Sep 17
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Thank you its good to hear about it from the point of view of someone who has done similar,
it might be a case of replace the radiators,then have the boiler replaced and keep our fingers crossed that pipework holds and if it doesnt have it repaired where it is not holding,because the consesus seems to be 15 years for pipework is not old |
28 Sep 20, 02:46 PM |
#19
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Thread Starter
Relaxing at the Grand Floridian
Join Date: Sep 17
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28 Sep 20, 03:38 PM |
#20
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VIP Dibber
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We replaced all of our radiators with ones bought from Brooklyn Trading. No problems with them what so ever and in fact our plumber often buys them from there now as he couldn't believe the prices and quality.
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