Bucket List or Bust! - Tokyo & Shanghai - November 2016 - Day 3

[Hannikins]

Bucket List or Bust! - Tokyo & Shanghai - November 2016 - Day 3

I had planned on an early start today but we were both pretty pooped so we were up and about an hour later than planned. I wasn’t too fussed though, a peek out the window confirmed that the weather was pretty much as it had been the day before, awful

We had breakfast included in our stay so we headed down to check it out.







These “toast tender chicken cubes” caught my eye. It’s a pretty accurate description of a chicken nugget I thought, and they didn’t disappoint according to Adam!



Afterwards we nipped back to the room so I could grab some more layers (it was colder than yesterday) and we headed off via the bund.







Our plan was to start at yu gardens so we headed to the nearest metro stop. We soon located the service desk so we could purchase our day tickets. They were 18CNY each so approx £2 and a bit of a bargain if you’re going to be hopping about like us (there’s a 3 day pass as well if you’re staying longer than us). You have to buy them from the desk though, and it was very rarely manned on our trip so keep an eye out and hope you’ll get lucky.

Yu gardens was only one stop from our hotel so we were soon there. It’s located in old town which is a very touristy area but the buildings are great to look at











We stopped by the entrance to check out the tea house area and take some photos. The weather wasn’t really helping but we took some selfies anyway, despite looking like complete idiots!



well, ok, just me looking like an idiot then



Finally the weather cleared a little and we were able to take some better photos

[Hannikins]

The entrance to the gardens is right next to the pond area so we purchased a ticket from the window and headed in (40CNY - £4.60).



I’d heard this place was usually packed but as the weather wasn’t great we had the whole place to ourselves which was pretty awesome.





I loved it in here, it’s like a warren. Out of all the sights we visited in Shanghai this was one of my favourites.







Halfway around I realised I needed the loo and i was dreading what we may find, worry not though I found a none squat loo which was surprisingly modern, you do need to bring your own tissues though like most public loos in China.











Adam thinks this is my resting bitch face. I’m pretty sure it’s my “where the hell has he disappeared to now face!”



It’s really easy to get lost in here, even with the signposts. On occasion we’d head through a tunnel in a rockery and end up somewhere we’d been before but on a hidden level or on the opposite side.







Finally we found the exit and we found ourselves in one of the old town alleyways



We found the tat shops here rather expensive so we decided to wait until we found somewhere a little less touristy.

Next I wanted to visit the town city god temple. This I really struggled to find as the entrance inside the shopping area is really hidden apart from a tiny hole in the wall where you buy tickets. The entrance from the street is so much more obvious.



It’s a very weird setup. Tourists buy tickets (10CNY - £1.20) but locals were simply ushered in. I guess if it’s your place of worship you don’t want to pay everytime!

It was interesting inside and busy, but we did feel a little out of place. We were the only westerners and one of a small number of tourists. We weren’t made to feel like we shouldn’t be there but when people stare at me I always feel a bit uncomfortable and it’s something I never got used to.

[Hannikins]

Next on my list was the Confucian Temple, which was a little walk away. I explained to Adam that there was building work so we may not go in but we both agreed that a little walk through the neighbourhood “aimlessly” was worth doing.

Now I’m not saying this was a bad idea, in some respects is was the BEST idea, but it’s not going to go down as one of my best every decisions either.

Firstly this area is true Shanghai, so if you want to get off the tourist path and head into the residential areas this is it. You’ll see some great sights. Adam was mesmerised by some of the stalls, some of which seemed to have sprung up on people's doorsteps, others little more than a hole in the wall.

The issue was I felt a little out of my depth. Adam was fine, which considering he usually senses danger around every street corner was surprising. In some respects it wasn’t “danger” I sensed. It was a sense of being somewhere I felt we shouldn’t, not belonging, daft I know. I kept my hood up and head down to avoid the stares :P



Anyway I didn’t take any photos apart from the one above, I didn’t want to take my phone out (not in case it was pinched, it just felt rude) but I did find some from a blog online which really summed it up.

It started pretty normally



but gradually the roads disappeared and things narrowed considerably



bikes and cars were everywhere, you really had to watch yourself











So yes, go with my warning in mind, but definitely go!

After all that the building work was covering the temple so we didn’t bother… typical!

It was getting towards lunchtime now and even though it wasn’t raining it was still chilly. I wanted to visit the french concession next so we decided to wait until we got there to grab something as I had somewhere in mind.

We caught the metro from Laoximen to Dapuqiao

The subway was very similar to Hong Kong, very clean and organised



the maps and routes were easy to understand



The exits and streets on the other hand, not so much. I hadn’t appreciated before how much I had relied on street view before our trips to get my bearing for where things were. For shanghai that had been impossible and we spent the best part of an hour walking around trying to find the entrance to Tianzifang. We definitely went around in a few big circles until we found it.

It was a really lovely shopping area, lots of lovely bars and crafts shops. We eventually located the place I had in mind for lunch, Kaiba Tap House, in one of the upstairs warrens… except it was closed for a private event. AHHHH!

We were both pretty pooped and Hangry by this point. I was starting to feel like we’d wasted time doing very little which was very frustrating.

After exploring the alleyways we made our way back to the metro… which was just by the exit round the corner…. I could have screamed!

[Hannikins]

The metro took us to Xintiandi . It was a little walk from the station and i could tell Adam was flagging but trying not to moan, sensing my mood I guess :P

I suggested sproutworks but he wasn’t keen!



The area was very modern and posh compared to everywhere we’d been so far.







After a quick explore we finally settled on Kabb for lunch, it was almost 2pm and we were ravenous! I didn’t have anywhere on my app but I did remember reading that this place was good during my trip planning and they had a pretty decent lunch meal deal of a daily soup, your choice of main dish and a hot or cold drink.

We both had the italian soup



Adam then had a red shrimp curry



and I had a brie and ham sandwich with fries



This came with a coke for Adam and a pot of tea for me. Total came to 240CNY (£27.50)

We could have had a dessert for a little extra but I had other plans

After we’d eaten I really couldn’t move, my knees had been sore for a few days and I now had a rather intense swelling and pain behind my kneecap (eek! )

We set off at a hobble in search of dessert.

You know you’re in the posh district when Tiffany’s sponsors the tree :P



Finally we arrived at the Andaz hotel and Eclair



As luck would have it we had arrived just in time for afternoon tea!







It was difficult to decide what to have. I considered one of the bigger cakes but finally settled on a hazelnut Eclair and a cappuccino



Adam went with the black forest cherry and a coffee



Total came to 110CNY (£12.80) so not cheap but a very enjoyable experience and another rest for the legs which was worth every penny

By this point we really couldn’t move and I was a little worried about my knee. Adam’s weren’t much better. He had to physically lift his legs up in order to get up!





I think it was at this point we both realised we were getting a bit old and lazy for this s$%t! We had a food tour planned that evening but we decided to head back to the hotel for a siesta beforehand.

We headed slowly to the nearest tube with a view of walking back via Nanjing Road to try and get our legs moving a little bit





The sun was already starting to set, we decided to walk back this way when it was fully dark later that night if we could as it already looked impressive



There were plenty of big brand shops here but we gave them a miss, although I was tempted to get some thermals, I was freezing.

Back at the hotel we both had time to warm up and catch a quick snooze we heading out yet again. This time I was wearing a pair of fleece lined leggings UNDER my jeans, I bet it was warmer at home!

[Hannikins]

The food tour started at 7pm back in old town a block away from where we started the day. So we were soon back on the metro heading off to the meeting spot on my printed out voucher.

I’ll say it again, the street names here are bloomin complicated, sometimes they are spelt out in different variations as well which doesn’t help. Still I should be thankful there were at least some English translation otherwise I would be really lost!. We were 5 minutes early when we arrived but I started to panic all the same, were we in the right location? the hotel fiasco had seriously knocked my confidence!

Finally Thomas our guide arrived to find us huddled under our brolly, it was raining again… A LOT!

We talked a bit about the weather, well he was British after all :P while we waited for the final two people to arrive for the tour. They arrived only a few minutes late, a lovely couple from America, before we were on our way to the first stop!

This was a little hole in the wall where we picked up some dumplings. It was a very quick stop on the way to our first main stop





We stood outside for a bit whilst Tom explained that they served great seafood here. Judging by the crates outside it was so fresh it was still moving, eek!



Bullfrog anyone?



Toms enthusiasm was infectious and I vowed that no matter what he put in front of me that evening… I was going to eat it…. except mushrooms… those are evil :P

Finally we were shown some water snakes which we were also going to try.



These apparently aren’t common to eat in Shanghai, it’s more of a novelty.

Two were picked especially for us





and then he chopped their heads off…. with a pair of scissors… lovely!

It landed by my foot… still moving…



He then started to skin and gut the still wiggling bodies ready for cooking









I was beginning to rethink my vow to eat anything, what were we in for… I needed a drink!

After the “show” was over we headed inside

[Hannikins]

We started with the dumplings we’d just picked up..



very nice!

We also enjoyed some beers… well lots of beer actually, whilst we got to know each other.

Next a scallop with garlic. Something I’ve never eaten.. I don’t do seafood. But I’d made a vow so I ate it and rather enjoyed it!

Then we had some veg on sticks. As each item came out Tom told us a little about it whilst also telling us about his job, shy he loved Shanghai, the history of the area and the restaurant itself.



The lotus root was particularly good!

Next came the crayfish… again something I’ve never had. So on went the gloves and Tom showed us how to twist the heads and legs off and get at the meat inside. Considering I’m squeamish about even touching chicken or ANYTHING with eyes I think I did remarkably well, AND I enjoyed them!

The beer helped… I was starting to feel a little giggly by this point!

Finally it was time for the snake!



Tastes like chicken.

No really, it does! the coating was like KFC and as they keep the backbone in you kinda have to nibble the meat off. I had a fair few pieces, I was on a roll tonight. Adam on the other hand, couldn’t get over what it was and gave in, no stamina!

Some more sticks came out



Mushrooms (I nibbled but nope, not happening, evil non-food) and some bread-like pieces. Tom explained that it was rice, pounded and then cooked on sticks, it’s like chewy bread. Anyway on its own its very plain but you’re supposed to use it to eat this;

Aubergine



Guess what? something else I don’t like :P

BUT covered in spices, chilli and garlic with chewy bread… AMAZING!

Next Thomas brought out some shot glasses and this from his bag



shaojiu

Roughly translated that’s “white (clear) alcohol” and at 60%ABV that’s pretty much exactly what it was.

I was beginning to regret all the beer now…Still bottoms up.

I nearly choked on mine, JEEZ that stuff is insane. I spilt it everywhere, how embarrassing!

I think Adam’s face very accurately sums up the experience



Apparently litre for litre this is the world’s most popular liquor…Scary stuff!

Next Tom brought out some Chinese desserts to try that he’d picked up down the street.







They were all pretty tasty. I loved the mango and coconut with tapioca balls best

[Hannikins]

Finally it was time to head to our second restaurant. On the way Tom took us past the dessert vendor’s stall to introduce us and passed a pastry shop, which had closed for the day but that he’d picked some treats up from for later.

This was completely different, a restaurant specialising in Chinese Muslim dishes.

We started with yet another beer



Tom was very passionate about his beer (he works with craft beers as his day job) so he told us lots about Chinese beers and which to try if we got the chance.

First we had “fat-tailed sheep” kebabs



interesting but a little fatty

this was served with some pasta



and some warm cucumber in a chilli marinade. This was the weirdest thing of the tour… not unpleasant… just odd lol



We finished off with the red bean pastries picked up earlier. These were interesting. I didn’t initially like red bean which I’d first had in Hong Kong last year but this was rather pleasant and sweeter than I remember.

We didn’t stop here as long, the rain was easing off so we made our way to the next stop.

We stopped on the way at a noodle stall to pick some up.



It was a little way to our next destination. Tom explained that this district was due to be flattened to make way for new housing and a big mall, which explained the empty lots. I mentioned the area I had been in that morning not far from here and apparently it’s fate is likely to be similar

[Hannikins]

The final stop was tiny. Even the plates and cups are washed and prepped offsite because there is no room to clean and store them.

We started with the noodles.



I don’t think I’d ever had fresh noodles like this but they were simple and tasty.

This place specialised in Sichuan cuisine and we were going to try several dishes of varying “levels” of spice.

Tom served up yet more beers from his bag of goodies. A different one this time and a popular one apparently



first pork



Tofu


And my favourite which I can’t remember what meat it was as we’d eaten it by the time I took a photo!



These were all served with rice which helped to deal with the varying levels of spice, they were HOT.

We were here for ages, taking our time over the food and chatting with Tom and the other couple.

So much so that we completely forgot the time! We said our goodbyes and Tom pointed us in the direction of the nearest metro station. We’d have to be quick to catch the last one of the evening EEK!

Luckily the rain had stopped and I used my app to work out how far we were and to get our bearings, it was going to be tight and we hobbled/fast walked as best we could.

We made it with 3 minutes and 40 seconds to spare!



We both agreed that this was by far one of the best food tours we’d ever done. The food was amazing, the other couple were fun and Tom’s enthusiasm for the food and culture of the area was infectious. We headed back to the hotel happy, a little drunk and very, VERY full.

The tour cost £101.57 for the two of us via viator and we both thought this was an absolute BARGAIN!

We headed back via Nanjing Road again to catch it all lit up.



I was glad of our afternoon nap, I’d have been a very moody zombie by this otherwise. We soon made it back to the hotel ready for an early start in the morning, I was just praying my legs would still work!

[kevin_cambs_uk]

I think the episode with the snake, I would have run a mile...

Again a truly excellent trip report!

[Hannikins]

Originally Posted by kevin_cambs_uk

I think the episode with the snake, I would have run a mile...

Again a truly excellent trip report!

See more...

It did cross my mind!